Highlands

What Are the Highlands

The Icelandic Highlands — known in Icelandic as Hálendið — are the central interior plateau, sitting between 400 and 800 metres above sea level, with some volcanic peaks exceeding 1,500 metres. They cover an area of roughly 42,000 square kilometres, making the interior one of Europe's largest areas of uninhabited wilderness.

No one permanently lives in the Highlands. The terrain is too harsh — volcanic rock, loose ash, glacial rivers, and unpredictable weather make year-round habitation impossible. Historically, Icelandic farmers drove their sheep to highland pastures in summer and retrieved them in autumn. Today the only people who venture here regularly are hikers, geologists, volcanologists, and summer tourists.

The landscape is shaped entirely by volcanic activity and glaciation. Rhyolite mountains erupt in vivid yellows, reds, and greens from mineral deposits in the rock. Black lava fields stretch for kilometres where eruptions built new ground. Geothermal vents steam from the earth's surface. Glacial rivers carve braided channels through black sand and gravel. Nothing about the interior looks like the Iceland most visitors see from the Ring Road.

When Can You Visit

The Highlands are only accessible in summer — roughly late June to early September. Before then, the F-roads (highland roads) are buried under snow and closed by law. After September, early snowfall and river flooding make them impassable again. The window is narrow, and road conditions change quickly even within the season.

Specific opening dates vary each year depending on snowmelt. Check road.is for current F-road status before planning any trip into the interior. F-roads that appear open on maps may still be officially closed earlier in the season.

F-Roads and 4WD Requirements

All roads into the Highlands are F-roads — unpaved gravel tracks, typically with unbridged river crossings, steep inclines, and rough terrain that standard cars cannot handle safely. A 4WD vehicle is required by law on all F-roads. Driving a 2WD on an F-road voids your rental car insurance entirely and puts both you and others at serious risk.

River crossings are one of the most unpredictable elements. Glacial rivers rise and fall depending on temperature, rain, and snowmelt — a river that was knee-deep in the morning may be waist-deep by afternoon. First-time visitors should not attempt river crossings alone. Joining a guided tour or taking a Highland bus is strongly recommended for anyone without experience crossing unbridged glacial rivers in Iceland.

If you do cross rivers in your own vehicle, watch other vehicles cross first, walk the crossing on foot before driving, and always cross at the designated ford marked with poles — never attempt an unmarked crossing. Many accidents in the Highlands involve river crossings misjudged by rental car drivers.

Landmannalaugar — The Coloured Mountains

Landmannalaugar is the most visited destination in the Highlands and one of the most visually extraordinary landscapes in Iceland. The name means "The People's Pools" — a reference to the natural geothermal hot springs that have served as a rest stop for highland travellers for centuries.

It sits at around 600 metres above sea level inside the Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the southern Highlands, about 182 kilometres from Reykjavík. The journey takes 3 to 4 hours by 4WD via the F26 and F208 roads. Access requires crossing a glacial river immediately before the campsite.

The Rhyolite Mountains

The defining feature of Landmannalaugar is its rhyolite mountains. Rhyolite is a volcanic rock rich in silica that cools slowly and traps minerals. Iron produces reds and oranges. Sulphur creates yellows. Copper adds greens. Silica contributes blues and whites.

These mineral layers, exposed by wind, rain, and erosion over thousands of years, give the mountains their extraordinary colour range — shifting from pink to yellow to green to deep red as the light changes through the day.

The mountains are part of the Torfajökull volcanic system, which last erupted in 1477. The Laugahraun lava field — a vast, dark expanse of rough lava rock — sits directly below the main campsite and was formed in that eruption. Walking through Laugahraun while coloured mountains rise around it creates one of Iceland's most striking visual contrasts.

The Natural Hot Springs

A geothermal river runs through the campsite area where hot and cold springs mix naturally, creating a bathing pool at a comfortable temperature of around 38 to 40 degrees Celsius. This is the only safe place to swim at Landmannalaugar — the geothermal springs feeding it are scalding, and the glacial streams running nearby are ice cold. The pool is free to use and accessible to anyone at the campsite.

Swimming here — surrounded by rhyolite mountains, steam rising from the earth, with no infrastructure beyond the hut and tents — is one of the most memorable experiences available in Iceland. Arrive early in the morning or late evening to avoid the busiest periods.

Day Hikes from Landmannalaugar

Bláhnjúkur (Blue Peak) is the most popular day hike. It is an 8.4-kilometre round trip taking about 3 hours, ascending steeply to a summit ridge with panoramic views over the entire Landmannalaugar area, the lava field, and surrounding mountain ranges on clear days. The descent is loose and requires care.

Brennisteinsalda (Sulphur Wave) is a 9.3-kilometre circuit around a volcano with one of the most colourful slopes in the area. The trail passes active fumaroles — vents releasing sulphurous gas — and several colour transitions in the rhyolite. The name refers to the wave-like ripple effect visible in the layers of coloured rock across its face.

Ljótipollur is an explosion crater lake about 5 kilometres northeast of the main campsite, accessible by a shorter hike of around 1.5 hours. The crater's steep red walls drop to a vivid blue-green lake below. It is one of the most dramatic small craters in Iceland and sees far fewer visitors than the more accessible sites at Landmannalaugar itself.

Facilities and Parking

Landmannalaugar has a mountain hut operated by the Icelandic Touring Association (FÍ) with sleeping space for around 78 people, a campsite, toilets, and a small café in a converted bus called the Mountain Mall. No showers. No phone signal. Limited food options.

Since 2024, visitors arriving by private or rental car between 8 AM and 3 PM (from 20 June to 15 September) must pre-book a parking space through the Icelandic Environment Agency website. Parking fees apply during these hours. This system was introduced to manage congestion at the site. Highland bus passengers and tour groups are not affected.

The Laugavegur Trail

The Laugavegur Trail is Iceland's most famous multi-day hike — widely considered one of the finest long-distance trails in Europe. It runs 55 kilometres from Landmannalaugar in the north to Þórsmörk in the south, passing through some of the most dramatic and varied highland terrain in the country.

The trail is divided into four sections, each ending at a mountain hut where hikers sleep overnight. The sections pass through rhyolite mountains, black sand desert, geothermal fields, lava flows, and glacial river valleys. The total elevation change across the route is significant — hikers gain and lose hundreds of metres across the passes between sections.

Most people complete the trail in 4 days, covering roughly 12 to 15 kilometres per day. The sections are:

Section 1 — Landmannalaugar to Hrafntinnusker: 12 kilometres, 6 to 8 hours. The most geothermally active section, passing obsidian ridges, snow fields (present even in summer), and active fumaroles. The Hrafntinnusker hut sits on an exposed, wind-prone plateau at around 1,100 metres — the highest overnight point on the trail.

Section 2 — Hrafntinnusker to Álftavatn: 12 kilometres, 5 to 6 hours. The trail descends from the plateau through a kaleidoscopic ridge before dropping into the valley of Álftavatn — two small lakes in a green, sheltered setting. The contrast after the barren volcanic plateau is striking.

Section 3 — Álftavatn to Emstrur (Botnar): 15 kilometres, 5 to 7 hours. The longest section. The trail crosses a black sand desert, several glacial river fords, and passes through geothermal valleys before reaching the Emstrur hut near the canyon edge of Markarfljót.

Section 4 — Emstrur to Þórsmörk: 15 kilometres, 5 to 7 hours. The final section descends into the birch forest valleys of Þórsmörk, with views of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier ahead. The trail ends at the Þórsmörk hut complex.

Booking Huts on the Laugavegur

Huts along the route fill up months in advance. They are operated by the Icelandic Touring Association (FÍ) and the Útivist hiking club. Booking opens in January each year and popular dates sell out quickly. Both sleeping bag accommodation in huts and camping pitches must be booked in advance. Hikers who arrive without a booking and find huts full must camp — bring a tent as insurance regardless.

The trail is open from roughly mid-June to mid-September depending on conditions. Snow remains on the highest sections (particularly between Landmannalaugar and Hrafntinnusker) well into summer. Check with hut wardens about current conditions before setting out.

Þórsmörk — The Valley of Thor

Þórsmörk (Thor's Forest) is a protected nature reserve in the southern Highlands, nestled directly between three glaciers: Eyjafjallajökull, Mýrdalsjökull, and Tindfjallajökull. The glaciers create a sheltered microclimate in the valley below, warm enough to support dense birch forest — rare in Iceland's otherwise treeless interior.

The valley floor has braided glacial rivers running through black sand, green birch-clad hillsides rising steeply on both sides, and views of ice caps in every direction. It is one of the most scenically complete destinations in Iceland — a single valley that contains lush vegetation, volcanic landscapes, glacial rivers, and glacier views simultaneously.

Getting to Þórsmörk

Þórsmörk is harder to reach than most highland destinations because the Krossá river — a braided, fast-flowing glacial river — must be crossed to enter the valley. The crossing can only be safely made in a very large and powerful 4WD. First-time visitors should not attempt it independently.

The safest options are the Highland Bus (Reykjavík Excursions operates a scheduled summer service from Reykjavík to Þórsmörk) or a Super Jeep guided tour. The Highland Bus departs from Reykjavík's BSÍ terminal and stops at Hvolsvöllur and Hella before entering the Highlands. Journey time is around 3 to 4 hours.

Park your car before the river and arrange a pickup from the valley entrance — the hut operators at Volcano Huts can coordinate this.

Hiking in Þórsmörk

Valahnúkur is the most popular short hike — a steep 1-hour climb to a ridge above the valley with a panoramic view over the three glaciers and the valley floor below. It is demanding but short, and the view from the top is considered one of the finest accessible viewpoints in southern Iceland.

Stakkholtsgjá is a narrow gorge carved into the canyon walls near the valley, reached by a 1-hour walk. A glacial stream runs through the bottom. The gorge walls narrow to a few metres across in places, with mossy rock overhangs and a small waterfall at the back. It appeared in the TV series Game of Thrones.

Fimmvörðuháls Pass

The Fimmvörðuháls Pass connects Þórsmörk to Skógar on the South Coast, crossing the saddle between the Eyjafjallajökull and Mýrdalsjökull glaciers. The one-way distance is 25 kilometres and takes 10 to 12 hours — it is a serious full-day hike, rated as one of the best single-day walks in the world by National Geographic.

The trail passes craters created during the 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption, views over both glaciers simultaneously, and descends past Skógafoss waterfall and more than 20 other smaller waterfalls on the way down to Skógar. It can be hiked in either direction — many people take the Highland bus to Þórsmörk and hike out to Skógar to meet a waiting vehicle. The pass is typically open from July to September.

Askja Caldera

Askja is an active volcanic complex in the central Highlands, situated in the Dyngjufjöll mountains north of the Vatnajökull glacier. The outer caldera covers about 50 square kilometres. The surrounding mountains reach up to 1,510 metres — among the highest in Iceland.

Askja was largely unknown until a massive eruption on 29 March 1875. The eruption was catastrophic — the volcanic plume reached 15 to 20 kilometres into the atmosphere, and the ashfall was heavy enough to poison farmland and kill livestock across the Eastfjords.

Ash drifted as far as Sweden, Norway, Germany, and Poland. The disaster triggered a wave of emigration from Iceland to North America that lasted for decades. Several towns on the eastern seaboards of the United States and Canada still have significant populations of Icelandic descent.

Víti Crater

On the northeastern shore of Öskjuvatn sits Víti — meaning "Hell" — a geothermal explosion crater about 150 metres in diameter. The crater formed during the 1875 eruption and is filled with milky-blue water rich in dissolved silica and sulphur, warmed by geothermal heat to around 20 to 25 degrees Celsius.

Swimming in Víti is possible but requires caution. The descent into the crater on loose scree is steep and slippery. The water temperature is comfortable in the shallows but colder at depth. Check current health advisories before bathing — bacterial levels can vary. There is no entry fee. The walk from the car park to the crater rim takes about 30 to 40 minutes across a lava field.

Getting to Askja

Askja is reached via Route F88, turning off the Ring Road near Lake Mývatn. The drive from the Ring Road to the Askja car park is about 100 kilometres — roughly 2 to 2.5 hours on rough, sandy F-road that includes multiple river crossings. A high-clearance 4WD is essential. The roads are typically open from late June to early October.

From the car park at Drekagil, the walk to the Víti crater and Öskjuvatn lake is 2.5 kilometres across a lava field — around 30 to 40 minutes each way. A park ranger station at Drekagil provides information on current trail and river conditions. Two mountain huts and a campsite are available at Drekagil for those spending the night.

Guided Super Jeep tours to Askja depart from Lake Mývatn — the most practical option for anyone who is not comfortable with F-road driving and river crossings. Tours typically take a full day and also include Herðubreið mountain and Holuhraun lava field.

The Kjölur Route — F35

The Kjölur Route (F35) is the most accessible highland crossing in Iceland — a historic road running roughly 190 kilometres from near Gullfoss in the south to Varmahlíð on the Ring Road in the north. It passes between the Hofsjökull and Langjökull glaciers across a vast, open highland plateau.

Unlike most F-roads, the Kjölur has no river crossings — making it the recommended route for first-time highland drivers who have a 4WD but are not experienced with fording glacial rivers. The road surface varies between rough gravel and sandy sections. A 4WD is still required by law.

The route takes its name from the old riding track Kjalvegur, which Icelandic settlers used for centuries as the main summer passage between the north and south. The original track is still marked by stone cairns west of the modern road.

Hveravellir

Hveravellir sits roughly halfway along the Kjölur route and is one of the most beautiful geothermal areas in Iceland's interior. The field contains boiling mud pots, steaming fumaroles, and vivid blue hot spring pools set in a wide, open highland plain. One of the hot spring pools — Ósmundarlaugar — is cool enough to bathe in.

Hveravellir has a mountain hut, campsite, and basic facilities. The location was historically the hideout of the 18th-century outlaw Fjalla-Eyvindur (Eyvindur of the Mountains), who reportedly survived winters in these highlands with his wife Halla for years, sheltering in a small cave near the hot springs. The cave is still visible and a short walk from the hut.

Kerlingarfjöll — The Troll Woman's Mountains

Kerlingarfjöll is a mountain range branching off the Kjölur route via F-347, between Hofsjökull and Langjökull glaciers. The range is made of rhyolite, and the combination of vivid multicoloured rock, a glacier tongue directly overhead, and an intensely active geothermal valley makes it one of the most visually dramatic areas in the Highlands.

The main geothermal area — Hveradalir — is a valley where the ground steams constantly, orange and red ridges rise on both sides, and the landscape feels more like a different planet than an Icelandic highland. Marked hiking trails loop through Hveradalir and to surrounding ridges.

Hikes range from short 1-hour walks to full-day routes covering the full valley system. A highland resort at Kerlingarfjöll offers hotel accommodation, cabins, and a campsite — one of the most comfortable overnight options in the interior.

The Sprengisandur Route — F26

The Sprengisandur Route (F26) is the longest and most desolate highland crossing in Iceland — running roughly 200 kilometres across the central desert from the south near Hekla to the north near Akureyri. It passes through Iceland's largest sand desert, flanked by the Hofsjökull, Tungnafellsjökull, and Vatnajökull glaciers.

The route requires significant river crossings and is suitable only for experienced highland drivers in properly equipped 4WDs. It takes a full day to drive through from south to north or vice versa. The landscape is stark and almost completely featureless for much of the route — wide black sand plains, glacier views on the horizon, and almost no landmarks. It is one of the most remote and isolated driving experiences available anywhere in Europe.

Mount Hekla — Iceland's Most Feared Volcano

Hekla is one of Iceland's most active volcanoes, rising to 1,491 metres on the edge of the southern Highlands. It has erupted more than 20 times since 874 AD, most recently in February 2000. For centuries it was believed to be one of the entrances to Hell — European medieval texts referred to it as "the Gateway to the Underworld." Souls of the damned were said to scream within it.

Hekla is notorious among volcanologists for erupting with almost no warning. Other Icelandic volcanoes typically show hours or days of seismic activity before erupting.

Hekla can go from quiet to full eruption in under an hour. Scientists monitor it constantly, and no one is permitted near the summit when any tremor is detected. Despite this, it is a popular hiking destination during quiet periods — the walk to the summit takes 3 to 4 hours from the base.

The volcano can be approached from the south via Route 26 and then F225, which also leads toward Landmannalaugar.

A visitor centre at Leirubakki farm near the base provides information on the volcano's history and current monitoring. It sits about 120 kilometres from Reykjavík via Route 1 and Route 26.

How to Get to the Highlands

Self-Drive in a 4WD

Renting a 4WD is the most flexible way to explore the Highlands. Not all 4WDs are equal on F-roads — a small compact SUV handles gravel roads but is not suitable for deep river crossings. For serious highland routes like F88 to Askja, a large-frame 4WD or Super Jeep is necessary. Ask the rental company specifically which crossings a vehicle can handle before booking.

Rental costs for highland-capable vehicles start from around €120 to €200 per day in summer. Fuel is expensive and consumption is high on rough terrain. Fill the tank at every opportunity — fuel stations in the interior do not exist. The nearest petrol before entering most F-roads is at towns on the Ring Road.

Highland Bus

The Highland Bus (operated by Reykjavík Excursions) runs a scheduled summer service from Reykjavík's BSÍ terminal to three main highland destinations: Landmannalaugar, Þórsmörk, and Skógar. Buses run daily from mid-June to mid-September. The service is designed for independent hikers doing the Laugavegur trail — you can take the bus one way and hike back (or vice versa), with baggage transfer available for an additional fee.

The Highland Bus does not require a booking for the bus itself, though hut accommodation must be booked separately. It is the safest and most affordable way to reach Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk without a 4WD. Journey time from Reykjavík to Landmannalaugar is around 4 to 5 hours. To Þórsmörk, around 3 to 4 hours.

Guided Tours

Guided Super Jeep and bus tours operate to all major Highland destinations from Reykjavík, Akureyri, and Lake Mývatn. They are the best option for anyone who wants to reach more remote sites (particularly Askja and Kerlingarfjöll) without driving demanding F-roads independently. Tours to Landmannalaugar from Reykjavík typically take a full day and cost around €120 to €180 per person. Tours to Askja from Mývatn run a similar price range.

Practical Travel Information

Accommodation in the Highlands

Accommodation inside the Highlands is limited to mountain huts and campsites. The main options are:

Landmannalaugar — FÍ hut (78 sleeping bag spaces) and a campsite. Booking essential in July and August. Basic toilet facilities only.

Huts along the Laugavegur Trail — four huts at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur, and Þórsmörk. All must be pre-booked through FÍ or Útivist. Open mid-June to mid-September only.

Kerlingarfjöll Highland Base — the most comfortable option in the interior, with hotel rooms, cabins, and camping. A restaurant operates on site. Bookable year-round but the base is only accessible in summer.

Hveravellir — a hut and campsite at the midpoint of the Kjölur route, with a natural hot spring pool. Bookable through the highland hut operators.

Volcano Huts, Þórsmörk — private accommodation at the Laugavegur trail's end, with dorms, private huts, a restaurant, and a geothermal pool. Book months in advance for July.

Best Time to Visit

July and early August are the peak highland months — roads are most reliably open, weather is at its most stable, and daylight is near-continuous. Snow is mostly gone from lower elevations by July, though the highest sections of the Laugavegur trail may retain patches. This is also the busiest period: Landmannalaugar in particular is crowded in peak summer and advance parking booking is mandatory.

Late June is quieter but carries more risk of road closures and snow on higher passes. Check road.is daily if visiting in late June. Late August and early September offers lower crowds and slightly more stable conditions than the chaotic peaks of July, though days are shortening and weather becomes less predictable by mid-September.